This weekend, I replaced the lighting fixture on my 185g reef tank. Previously, I was using a Hamilton Cebu Sun fixture with three 250W 14k single-ended metal halide bulbs and four 72" T5 actinic fluorescent bulbs. Main reasons for this replacement were to reduce electrical costs and generated heat and eliminate the cost and hassle of replacing bulbs every 6 months
|Original MH/T5 fixture suspended from ceiling|
|MH and T5 ballasts needed to run lights|
The panels do not come with mounting hardware since several options are available. I did not want to suspend my lights again so I ordered wall mounts. These however, were intended to be mounted behind a tank flush with the wall. My tank has a 7" space behind it. To deal with this, I built a 1.5" thick wood frame from plywood to which I attached the three wall mount brackets. This frame also gave me a place to tie down all of the messy wiring. I mounted the 6 dimmer switches on the outer edge of the frame for easy access.
|Wood frame acts as a "fake wall" to mount brackets|
Once assembled, the whole unit slipped behind the tank onto the back lip of my tank stand.
|Lighting assembly mounted to the back of the tank stand|
From the front, you can see the LED panels are place 6" above the water surface. I created a pair of L-shaped wooded trim pieces for the top rim of the tank. To these I fastened a section of black plastic panel. These lift off individually. When in place, they completely hide the glare from LED fixture yet don't trap any heat in the tank. Since each panel is driven by two AC adapters, I can have each of these on a different timer so that I can turn on lights in the tank progressively. In the photo below, note that each panel has only half the modules turned on, both blue and one 12k/blue.
|Panels are hidden behind decorative trim|
The wall-mounts have a built-in device to allow the panel to rest in this 30 degree position. This is very convenient for cleaning and accessing the tank. Actually more convenient than the adjustable hanging system I was using on the previous fixture.
|Cleaning position for the panels|
|Ecoxotic Panorama Pro - fully turned on.|
Update 2012.08.24 - The fixture is still really easy to work with and keep clean. The added blue light makes coral colors stand out more, especially the fluorescent greens. The corals are growing at about the same rate as before. Cyanobacteria has not bloomed as it was doing with the aged VHO/MH combination I had before but it is not completely absent. So far, I am still pleased with the change.
Update 2012.09.20 - I have now had two of the 24V 60W AC/DC adapters fail. Ecoxotic was very easy to deal with; simply filled out an on-line return request and emailed receipt photo.
Update 2012.12.01 - I had put the remainder of the adapters on a "heat sink" and put a little fan across them. No new failures.
Update 2013.03.20 - Over the past few weeks I have gotten failures on several dozen LED elements. These mostly on the modules that are on for the longer photo-period so have had more total run-time. Not sure what is going on because these, unlike the AC adapters, are out in the open in a cool room with plenty of circulation around them.
You can see on these 6 modules the number of dark slots. I measured a temperature of 106 F on the sides of the modules which are lit. Ecoxotic specifies a required temperature of 131 F or less.
Update 2013.04.06 - I received and installed the replacement LED modules. I also raised the lights from 6" to 8" above the water. 6" was the minimum height specified by Ecoxotic. Temperatures on the modules when lit range from 89 °F to 109 °F.
Update 2013.05.05 - Two more modules of the original batch are failing, these being from the shorter photo-period. Ecoxotic has replaced these as well.